A real itinerary with 3 nights in Hanoi, a Halong Bay overnight cruise, a day in Ninh Binh and an optional night train to Sapa — costs in USD and VND, with updated e-visa rules, $2 phở and what to do when a motorbike comes at you in the Old Quarter.
A real itinerary with 3 nights in Hanoi, a Halong Bay overnight cruise, a day in Ninh Binh and an optional night train to Sapa — costs in USD and VND, with updated e-visa rules, $2 phở and what to do when a motorbike comes at you in the Old Quarter.
US, UK, French, German, Italian, Spanish and many other passport holders do NOT need a visa for stays up to 45 days since August 2023, extended through August 2028. If you want to stay longer, the e-visa costs $25 (single entry, 90 days) or $50 (multiple entry), approved in 3 business days at evisa.gov.vn.
No direct flight from the US. Realistic 2026 routes: Qatar Airways via Doha ($1,400-1,800, 22h door-to-door from JFK/LAX), Turkish via Istanbul ($1,200-1,600, 26h), Emirates via Dubai ($1,500-1,900, 24h). Book 90 days ahead for the November-March high season.
2026 FX: $1 ≈ 25,000 VND. Use Vietcombank or BIDV ATMs in Hanoi ($1.50 fee). Avoid airport Money Exchange (loses 7%). Wise, Revolut and Charles Schwab debit work, but cash is king for street food.
Decent Old Quarter hostel: $8-15/night (Nexy, Old Quarter View, Little Charm). Three-star boutique hotel: $35-60. Standard Halong Bay 2D1N cruise: $120-180 per person.
Street food costs almost nothing. Phở bò at Phở Gia Truyen (49 Bát Đàn): 50,000 VND ($2). Bún chả at Hương Liên (24 Lê Văn Hưu, where Obama ate with Anthony Bourdain in May 2016): 85,000 VND. Bánh mì 25: 30,000 VND. Cà phê trứng (egg coffee, invented at Café Giang in 1946): 35,000 VND. Bia hơi (fresh draft beer): 8,000-15,000 VND ($0.30-0.65) per glass.
A real itinerary with 3 nights in Hanoi, a Halong Bay overnight cruise, a day in Ninh Binh and an optional night train to Sapa — costs in USD and VND, with updated e-visa rules, $2 phở and what to do when a motorbike comes at you in the Old Quarter.
