When the tour buses leave and the city belongs to Romans again.
When the tour buses leave and the city belongs to Romans again.
Trastevere by day is a cliché; at night, it's Rome.
The magic window is 9:30pm (dinner starts) to 1am (last bicchiere).
Piazza di Santa Maria and Piazza Trilussa are the hubs.
Roman pizza (thin crust, high hydration) is not Neapolitan.
Italian aperitivo: spritz + cicchetti before dinner, never during.
When the tour buses leave and the city belongs to Romans again.