Bangkok for first-timers in 2026: an honest itinerary through neighborhoods, temples and the Thailand nobody told you about

Bangkok welcomed 32 million tourists in 2025 and remains the most visited city in the world. Bigger than Paris, bigger than London, bigger than Dubai. Ten million residents, 400 Buddhist temples, eight thousand tuk-tuks, and a public-transport system that shames most Western metropolises. Yet the first-time visitor still arrives expecting a small, dirty, cheap Asian city. They leave realizing Bangkok is a world-class megalopolis with neighborhoods more sophisticated than parts of Manhattan and a religious tradition that lives intact next to kilometer-long shopping malls.

The fact is simple. Bangkok has become a long-haul hub, and Thailand has kept visa-free entry for Americans, Brits, Canadians and Australians for 30 days. In 2026 it streamlined the process further with the online ETA Thailand. That means leaving JFK or LHR and eating pad thai on Yaowarat costs, in the best case, $900 in airfare from the US (under £700 nonstop from London), $0 in visa, $4 from the airport to the hotel, and $7 for dinner. The barrier is flight time (17-22h from the US East Coast, 11-12h nonstop from London) and figuring out what to actually do in a city like this over 4, 5 or 7 days.

This itinerary is for first-timers. It tells you which neighborhoods work for which traveler, how not to get fleeced by a tuk-tuk, which temple charges a fair ticket and which one overcharges, and why Khao San Road deserves exactly one night of your life — but only one.

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Getting there and what Thailand changed in 2026

TL;DRFrom the US: 17-22h with one stop via DOH (Qatar), DXB (Emirates), HND (ANA/JAL), ICN (Korean) or NRT (United). From the UK: 11-12h nonstop on Thai Airways or EVA Air from London Heathrow — the rare direct option. From Australia: 9-10h nonstop on Thai or Qantas from Sydney/Melbourne. Best booking window: 90-120 days out.

There is no nonstop flight between the US and Bangkok, but plenty of one-stop options. The realistic routes from the US East Coast: JFK → DOH (Doha) → BKK on Qatar Airways, 18-20h, $950-1,500 round-trip economy if booked 90-120 days out; JFK → HND → BKK on ANA/JAL, 22-24h, $1,100-1,800; JFK → ICN → BKK on Korean Air, 22h, $1,000-1,600. From LAX: shorter at 17-19h via HND, ICN or TPE on EVA. London passengers have it best: LHR → BKK nonstop on Thai Airways or EVA Air, 11-12h, £650-1,200 round-trip. From Sydney or Melbourne, Thai and Qantas fly nonstop in under 10 hours, AUD $900-1,500.

For the best fare window, US travelers should book January-March for travel June-September. For peak December-January travel, book in May-July. Gulf-carrier Black Friday sales sometimes drop fares below $750 from JFK.

In 2026 Thailand activated the ETA Thailand (Electronic Travel Authorization). It is a free online form that replaces the old paper arrival card (TM6). Fill it out at thailande-evisa.go.th within 72h of your flight. It takes three minutes: passport, flight, first-night hotel, email. You receive a QR code to show at immigration. Watch out: the ETA is free; sites charging $30-80 are scams.

At Suvarnabhumi immigration, present your passport and ETA. No mandatory vaccination certificate for US, UK, Canadian or Australian travelers. Make sure your passport has at least 6 months of validity beyond your return date. Proof of onward travel is rarely requested at immigration but airlines sometimes ask at check-in — keep a screenshot of your return flight.

Suvarnabhumi (BKK) sits 30 km east of central Bangkok. The Airport Rail Link to Phaya Thai station costs 45 THB (45 min, air-conditioned, the only direct public-transport option). Grab to the center: 350-500 THB (40-60 min). Metered taxi (green lights on): 400-600 THB including tolls. Refuse the "fixed rate" counter — 800 THB for the same service. Don Mueang (DMK) is the low-cost airport to the north, used by AirAsia and Nok Air; domestic flights depart there. To downtown: bus A1/A4 (30 THB) or Grab (300 THB).

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Visa, safety, money: the basics that confuse

TL;DRUS, UK, Canadian and Australian passports enter visa-free for 30 days on arrival, extendable for 30 more at the Chaeng Wattana Immigration Bureau for 1,900 THB ($55, half a day). Bangkok is among the world's safest megacities for foreign tourists. Currency: 35 THB ≈ $1. ATMs charge 220 THB per withdrawal. SuperRich and Vasu have the best exchange rates.

Visa: US, UK, Canadian, Australian and most European passports get 30 days free on arrival, extendable for 30 more at the Chaeng Wattana Immigration Bureau for 1,900 THB ($55, half a day). Passport valid 6 months. Proof of onward travel rarely requested but possible at airline check-in — keep a printed or screenshot of your return flight.

Safety: Bangkok is remarkably safe — even for solo women, couples and families. Violent crime against tourists is rare. The real risks are: the gem-shop tuk-tuk scam, the "temple is closed today" scam (it never is), traffic (crossing Sukhumvit requires religious faith), and the heat (real heatstroke risk). Solo woman at night in Khao San: fine. In Soi Cowboy or Nana Plaza: the atmosphere is explicit male sex tourism — you will feel uncomfortable, but there is no physical danger.

Money: baht (THB). 35 THB ≈ $1 USD in May 2026. $100 = 3,500 THB. ATM withdrawals at Bangkok Bank, Kasikorn or SCB: 20,000 THB limit per transaction, flat 220 THB fee. Always pull the max to dilute the fee. Use Wise, Revolut, or Charles Schwab to avoid foreign-transaction fees. SuperRich (orange or green) and Vasu are the best exchange houses — bring USD or GBP in cash, avoid airport and Khao San.

Credit cards work at 3-star hotels and up, tourist restaurants, malls and 7-Eleven. Street markets, food carts, tuk-tuks and alley massages: cash only. Always carry 1,000 THB ($28) in small bills. 1,000-THB notes are hard to break at food carts.

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Getting around: BTS, MRT, Grab and the treacherous tuk-tuk

TL;DRBangkok has the best public transport in Southeast Asia. The BTS Skytrain is the elevated metro with two main lines (Sukhumvit in light green, Silom in dark green). The MRT is underground (blue and purple lines). They connect at transfer stations (Asok/Sukhumvit, Sala Daeng/Silom, Mo Chit/Chatuchak). Fare 30-60 THB per ride.

Bangkok has the best public transport in Southeast Asia. The BTS Skytrain is the elevated metro with two main lines (Sukhumvit in light green, Silom in dark green). The MRT is underground (blue and purple lines). They connect at transfer stations (Asok/Sukhumvit, Sala Daeng/Silom, Mo Chit/Chatuchak).

Fare: 30-60 THB depending on distance. Fierce AC. Clean. Punctual every 5 minutes. Runs 6am-midnight. Buy a Rabbit Card at any BTS counter for 200 THB (100 deposit + 100 credit) and top it up with any amount. It covers BTS and part of the MRT. Single-ride tickets also work.

Grab is the Thai Uber. It works seamlessly: fixed price when you book, driver follows GPS. Average ride between central neighborhoods: 80-150 THB ($2.30-4.30). At rush hour (5-8pm) Bangkok grinds to a halt — Sukhumvit can take an hour to cover 5 km. Read the traffic before you call Grab.

Tuk-tuks are an expensive tourist experience. Drivers ALWAYS quote 3-5x the fair price. A ride Grab would charge 100 THB will be quoted at 400 THB from a tuk-tuk. Always negotiate BEFORE getting in: "100 baht?" → "no, 300" → "150 final" → ok. Never accept "trip 200 baht good price boss take you 5 temples" — that's the gem-shop scam. They drive you to 3 real temples and 2 "Thai gem" shops with an aggressive salesman. You buy nothing, the driver gets commission. To avoid: short rides only, or take Grab.

The Chao Phraya River boat is both real public transport and a tourist ride. The Chao Phraya Express Boat (orange line, 15 THB per stop) connects Sathorn (CBD) to the Grand Palace and beyond. Khlong Saen Saep boats (10-20 THB) cut east-west across the city by canal — fast in rush hour but raw Bangkok, with a loud diesel engine and not-so-clean canal water splashing. Worth it once.

Metered taxis with green lights work. Refuse any taxi parked in front of a hotel asking "fixed price." "Meter, please" — if they refuse, walk out and grab another. Average ride 80-150 THB.

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Temples: Wat Pho, Wat Arun, Grand Palace and the dress code

TL;DRBangkok alone holds 400 temples. Three are essential and form the "temple triangle" in Rattanakosin (the Old City), all within walking distance. Wat Pho (Reclining Buddha), Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), Grand Palace + Wat Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha). Shoulders and knees covered is mandatory.

Bangkok alone holds 400 temples. Three are essential and form the "temple triangle" in Rattanakosin (Old City), all walkable from one another.

Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha). Ticket 200 THB (includes a water bottle). The golden Buddha measures 46m long and 15m tall, lying on his side, with feet inlaid with mother-of-pearl in 108 auspicious symbols. Wat Pho is also the official Thai-massage academy — you can book a session at the Wat Pho Thai Traditional Medical School for 280 THB/hour ($8), widely considered the most authentic massage in Bangkok. Open 8am-6:30pm. Go early (8am) to beat the Chinese tour groups that arrive at 10.

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). Ticket 50 THB. It sits across the Chao Phraya in Thonburi. Cross by ferry from pier 8 (Tha Tien, next to Wat Pho) for 5 THB. Five-minute crossing. Wat Arun has the iconic 70m central prang covered in broken Chinese porcelain mosaic. You can climb halfway up the tower via a steep staircase. The classic shot: Wat Arun from the Wat Pho side at sunset, the gilded tower against a pink sky.

Grand Palace + Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha). Combined ticket 500 THB. This is the royal complex where the king lived until 1925. Wat Phra Kaew houses the 66cm Emerald Buddha — the holiest relic in Thai Buddhism. Everything gleams in gold, ceramic and detail. It is vast: allow 2-3 hours. The dress code is strict: shoulders and knees covered MANDATORY, no shorts for men, no tank tops for women. If you arrive incorrectly dressed they lend a sarong at the entrance for a 200 THB deposit (refunded at exit). Go early (it opens at 8:30): by 11 it becomes a human sauna.

Scams: ignore anyone approaching you on the street saying "Grand Palace closed today, I take you better temple." It's the tuk-tuk gem-shop scam. The temple is never closed on a surprise basis.

Other temples worth your time: Wat Saket (Golden Mount), a 318-step climb for a 360° view of the Old City, 100 THB. Wat Suthat, home to the giant red swing. Wat Traimit, housing a 5.5-ton solid gold Buddha. Wat Mahathat, a Buddhist meditation school that accepts foreign visitors for free 3-7 day retreats.

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Where to sleep: which neighborhood for a first visit

TL;DRSukhumvit (Asok, Phrom Phong, Thonglor, Ekkamai) is the safest first-timer pick. Spine of the BTS light-green line, dozens of 3-5 star hotels, a mall every block (Terminal 21, EmQuartier, Emporium), international restaurants, quality Thai food. 3-star hotel: $70-130/night. Hostel: $20-40.

Sukhumvit (Asok, Phrom Phong, Thonglor, Ekkamai). The safest first-timer choice. Spine of the BTS light-green line, dozens of 3-5 star hotels, a mall every block (Terminal 21, EmQuartier, Emporium), international restaurants, quality Thai food. Sukhumvit 11 and Sukhumvit 22 are the more residential, quieter sois (lanes). Asok is the commercial heart. Phrom Phong is upper-middle-class Thai, calm. Thonglor is the cool neighborhood for cocktail bars and clubs. 3-star here: $70-130/night. Boutique 4-star: $140-230. Hostel: $20-40 a dorm bed.

Silom and Sathorn. Financial district by day, heavy nightlife by night (Patpong night market and go-go bars). BTS dark-green line. More central than Sukhumvit. International-chain 4-5 star hotels: Banyan Tree, Sukhothai, COMO Metropolitan. Good for business travelers or those wanting a quiet, central base by day. 4-star: $115-200.

Khao San Road and Banglamphu. Classic backpacker since the 1980s. Hostels from $9 to $24 a bed. Loud street until 3am, bucket-of-booze parties, 22-year-old gringos. No BTS nearby (Phaya Thai is 2km away, Grab mandatory). Upside: walkable to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. Downside: loud, dirty, peak tourist circus. Worth one night to experience, not the whole trip.

Riverside (riverside Sathorn, Klong San). Silent luxury. Mandarin Oriental ($900+/night), Peninsula, Shangri-La, Capella. Chao Phraya views, breakfast worth the ticket. Far from BTS (they offer a shuttle boat to a partner BTS station). Good for honeymoons or those prioritizing service. 5-star: $350-1,000.

Chinatown (Yaowarat). Nightly street-food chaos, gone trendy in the last five years. New boutique hotels (Shanghai Mansion, Bangkok Publishing Residence). Near the MRT Wat Mangkon station. Neighborhood for foodies who can stomach an evening full of fryer smells. $85-180 boutique hotel.

Direct recommendation: first time, pick Sukhumvit Asok/Phrom Phong. It works for everything, the BTS takes you everywhere, decent hotels run $85/night.

Food in Bangkok: Yaowarat, markets and the real pad thai

TL;DRThe best meal in Thailand is rarely in a restaurant. It's at a street cart, on a plastic chair, under a yellow bulb. And it costs $7. Yaowarat (Chinatown) concentrates the best of Bangkok street food in a single road, working nightly (6pm-1am). Or Tor Kor is the upscale covered market for shyer stomachs.

The best meal in Thailand is rarely in a restaurant. It's at a street cart, on a plastic chair, under a yellow bulb. And it costs $7.

Yaowarat (Chinatown). The best Bangkok street food concentrated in one street. Open at night (6pm-1am). Walk in via the MRT Wat Mangkon station. Must-eats: pad krapow (minced meat with holy basil, $7), boat noodle (noodle soup with coagulated pork blood, $4), oyster omelet ($8), khao man gai (Hainan-style boiled chicken with rice, $5), mango sticky rice for dessert ($5). Nai Mong Hoi Tod (oyster omelet, Michelin Bib Gourmand): $14. Jek Pui Curry Rice (no tables, you eat standing on the sidewalk): $8. Potential turn-offs: nothing pasteurized, reused oil, heavy frying smell in the air. Works for the open-minded eater.

Or Tor Kor Market. Next to Chatuchak (MRT Kamphaeng Phet). Upscale covered market — cleaner, pricier (50% above street, still cheap). Exotic fruit (mangosteen, durian, rambutan), live fish, prepared meals. The food court inside serves the same dishes as the street, sanitized. Pad thai here: $9. Good for Western stomachs that get cautious.

Essential dishes and where to eat them:

• Pad thai: skip the Khao San version (pure tourist). Go to Thip Samai (Phra Athit, the city classic, $9) or Pad Thai Fai Ta Lu (gourmet, $23). Random Sukhumvit street cart: $14, decent.
• Tom yum goong (spicy shrimp soup): Pe Aor (near Ratchathewi BTS), giant bowl $23 with three large shrimp. The national soup.
• Massaman curry: Krua Apsorn (Dinso Road), beef curry with potato and peanuts, $14.
• Mango sticky rice: Mae Varee in Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55), considered the city's best, $9.
• Khao soi (Northern Thai curry noodles): rare in Bangkok — head to Si Trat or Ongtong Khaosoi, $11.

Mall food courts are an underrated experience. Terminal 21 (Asok BTS) has themed floors by city (San Francisco, Tokyo, Istanbul). Thai food for $8 in an AC, clean, low-anxiety setting. Perfect for the first meal after the flight. EmQuartier (Phrom Phong) offers more upscale options.

Thai fine dining: Gaa (chef Garima Arora, 2 Michelin stars, tasting menu $420), Sorn (Southern Thai cuisine, 2 stars, $700), Le Du (1 star, $340). Reserve 30-60 days out.

Important: never drink the tap water. Bottled mineral (10 THB / $0.30 at 7-Eleven). Ice at tourist bars and restaurants is safe (industrial tube ice). Cart ice: risky.

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Thai massage: Wat Pho vs spa

TL;DRThai massage was born at Wat Pho. The kingdom's official traditional massage school sits inside the temple and has taught the method since the 18th century. One-hour session, 280 THB ($8). The most authentic, cheapest option in town. 5-star hotel spas charge $90-220 for the same technique in nicer surroundings.

Thai massage was born at Wat Pho. The kingdom's official traditional massage school sits inside the temple and has taught the method since the 18th century. One-hour session, 280 THB ($8). The most authentic, cheapest option in town. No ambient music, no aromatherapy, no spa shower — just a mat-divided room and a master doing the real work.

Foot massage in any Sukhumvit or Silom alley: 200 THB ($5.70) for an hour, usually in a reclining chair. Perfect after a day of walking.

5-star hotel spa (Mandarin Oriental, Peninsula, Banyan Tree): $90-220 per hour. Worth it only if you want the full luxury experience. The massage technique is identical to Wat Pho — only the surroundings differ.

Mid-range street spa chains like Health Land or Asia Herb Association: $15-30 per hour. Intermediate comfort, good AC, trained therapists. Excellent value.

Warning: "happy ending" massage exists in some venues, especially near Soi Cowboy and Patpong. Always look for "Thai Traditional Massage" signage — those venues are certified by the Ministry of Public Health. If the entrance has a pink neon light and a uniformed woman calling you over, that's something else.

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Day trips: Ayutthaya, Damnoen Saduak, Erawan

TL;DRAyutthaya. Former capital of the Siamese kingdom (1351-1767), destroyed by the Burmese and now a Unesco World Heritage Site with 4 open-air ruined temples. 80 km north of Bangkok, 1h45 by train at 20 THB. Damnoen Saduak is the famous floating market but it has turned into a tourist circus — go to Amphawa or Khlong Lat Mayom instead.

Ayutthaya. Former capital of the Siamese kingdom (1351-1767), destroyed by the Burmese in 1767 and now Unesco with 4 open-air ruined temples. 80 km north of Bangkok. Train from Hua Lamphong station, 20 THB ($0.55) third class, 1h45 each way. Or Grab ($6 one way) or organized van ($3 round trip). In Ayutthaya, rent a bicycle in the center for 50 THB/day and visit Wat Mahathat (the famous Buddha head in tree roots), Wat Chaiwatthanaram (silhouette on the river), Wat Phra Si Sanphet (three chedis in line). Combined ticket 220 THB. Full day, back by 6pm.

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. Thailand's most famous floating market. It has become explicit tourist theater since the 1990s — colorful boats filled with Chinese tourists taking photos. Rowboat tickets 400 THB, 60-90 min. Worth one visit. Go early (5-6am) to beat the wave. Authentic alternative: Amphawa Floating Market (110 km from Bangkok, farther but more real, working Friday-Sunday afternoons, local boat food, fireflies at night). Or Khlong Lat Mayom within Bangkok itself (west side, 30 min by Grab, Saturday-Sunday, authentically Thai).

Erawan Falls (Kanchanaburi). Seven-tier waterfall, turquoise water, 3h by bus from Bangkok (plus 30 min by car from Kanchanaburi). Only worth it with 4-5 days in town or combined with Kanchanaburi (Bridge over the River Kwai, war cemetery). Exhausting day trip: leave at 6am, back by 10pm. Organized tour $75.

Ko Kret. A small Chao Phraya island-community 30 km north of Bangkok, home to the Mon (an ethnic minority from old Siam), with pottery, a temple, and regional food. Light half-day trip: Grab to Pak Kret pier, cross by ferry (3 THB), rent a bicycle on the island (40 THB). Almost no international tourists.

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Nightlife: Khao San, Soi Cowboy, Thonglor with full disclosure

TL;DRKhao San Road is the definitive backpacker strip — 400m of bars, hostels, tattoo shops and bucket cocktails. Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza are active red-light districts. Thonglor and Ekkamai concentrate Bangkok's cool scene: award-winning cocktail bars, international DJ clubs, hipster restaurants. Rooftop bars are a Bangkok specialty.

Khao San Road. The definitive backpacker strip. 400m of bars, hostels, tattoo parlors, bucket cocktails (yes, literally a plastic bucket with Red Bull, vodka and Coke, 150 THB), questionable street food and 22-year-old gringos. Loud music until 3am. Insane crowds on Saturday night. Experience it once — after that it gets repetitive. By day it's a normal hostel street.

Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza. Bangkok's two active red-light districts. Go-go bars, dancers, explicit sex tourism. Not for families, couples or solo women. If you want to see them "out of curiosity," fair warning: the atmosphere is uncomfortable, and that discomfort is not just yours — it belongs to women who often work there in conditions far from a free choice. If you go, go with a critical eye and spend the minimum possible.

Thonglor and Ekkamai. Bangkok's cool scene. Award-winning cocktail bars (Vesper, Tep Bar, Smalls), international DJ clubs (Beam, Sing Sing Theater), hipster restaurants, brunch culture. Drinks $14-23. Safe, sophisticated, wealthy Thai middle class plus Western expats. Best place for a quality night out.

Rooftop bars. Bangkok is the world capital of rooftop bars. Vertigo (atop Banyan Tree, sunset with 360° views, $28 drink), Lebua Sky Bar (Hangover 2 was filmed here, $34 drink, formal dress code), Octave (Marriott, cheaper, $17 drink). Go at sunset.

Clubs and electronic music. Active scene, mostly in Thonglor and Ekkamai. Beam (RCA), Sing Sing Theater (Sukhumvit), Onyx (RCA). Cover $11-28. Parties run until 3-4am.

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Heat, best season, vaccines and packing list

TL;DRBangkok averages 95°F year-round with humidity making it feel like 108°F. Dry season (November-February) is the best window — temperatures still high (82-91°F) but less humid, sunny days, comfortable nights. March-May: extreme heat. June-October: monsoon, 1-2h of rain a day, hotels 30-50% cheaper.

Bangkok averages 95°F with a heat index of 108°F because of humidity. It is the tropics in pure form: never cool, always humid. Differences between seasons are subtle in temperature but huge in rain and tourism volume.

Dry season (November-February): the best window. Still hot (82-91°F), less humidity, sunny days, comfortable nights. High season: hotels 30% pricier, attractions crowded. December and January are absolute peak.

Hot season (March-May): the heat erupts. 100-104°F by afternoon. Songkran (Thai water festival) takes over the city on April 13-15 — the entire country turns into a water-pistol battle. Worth experiencing once. Otherwise, a brutal month for tourism.

Rainy/monsoon season (June-October): rain falls 1-2h a day, usually afternoon, intense and short. Mornings and late afternoons function normally. Hotels 30-50% cheaper. Central Bangkok doesn't flood but some streets do briefly. September and October are great for budget travel.

Vaccines: no mandatory vaccines for US, UK, Canadian, Australian or European travelers. Recommended: hepatitis A, tetanus up to date, typhoid if planning heavy street food.

Packing:

• Light cotton or linen clothing; long pants or a long skirt for temples (shoulders and knees covered)
• Closed shoes for temples (flip-flops disapproved at some sites, strap sandals fine)
• Strong DEET repellent (tropical mosquitoes are aggressive; dengue exists)
• SPF 50+ sunscreen
• Wet wipes (you will sweat)
• Universal adapter (Thailand uses mixed type A, B and C — universal solves it)
• Reusable water bottle (hotels provide free water)

Electricity: 220V. Free Wi-Fi is everywhere (hotels, cafés, malls, BTS). Prepaid AIS or TrueMove SIM at the airport: $17 for 15GB valid 8 days.

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Total cost for 5 days in Bangkok: three honest scenarios

TL;DRBackpacker scenario: $400-550 excluding flights. Standard couple: $1,200-1,800 for two, no flights. Mandarin Oriental luxury couple: $8,000+ excluding flights. Economy flights from JFK via DOH: $950-1,500 round-trip in the right window; from LHR nonstop on Thai/EVA: £650-1,200.

Backpacker scenario: $400-550 (no flights). Khao San dorm bed: $11/night ($55). Street food and food courts: $14/day ($70). BTS + Grab transport: $9/day ($45). Temple tickets (Wat Pho + Wat Arun + Grand Palace + Ayutthaya): $80. Wat Pho massage: $8. Total: $258 + room for extras. Flights: $950-1,500.

Mid-range scenario (standard couple): $1,200-1,800 (no flights, for two). 3-star Sukhumvit hotel: $90/night ($450). Mixed street food + tourist restaurant: $60/day per couple ($300). Transport: $20/day ($100). Tickets: $160 for two. Two massage sessions: $50. Ayutthaya day trip: $100. Extras (shopping, drinks): $300. Total: $1,460. Flights for two: $1,900-3,000.

Luxury scenario (Mandarin Oriental couple): $8,000+ (no flights, for two). 5-star Riverside hotel: $900/night ($4,500). Fine dining: $250/day per couple ($1,250). Private car with driver: $180/day ($900). Hotel spa: $350. Extras: $1,500. Total: $8,500. Business class flights: $7,000-12,000.

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Mistakes first-timers make

TL;DRAccepting a tuk-tuk offering "5 temples for 200 baht" — gem-shop scam. Paying 800 THB for an airport taxi at the "fixed rate" desk — use the meter or Grab. Aggressive photography inside temples. Pointing your feet at a Buddha image. Discussing the royal family or the king — lèse-majesté carries up to 15 years in prison in Thailand.

Accepting a tuk-tuk offering "5 temples for 200 baht" — gem-shop scam. Paying 800 THB for an airport taxi at the "fixed rate" desk — use the meter or Grab. Aggressive photography inside temples (some prohibit flash near the main Buddha). Pointing your feet at a Buddha image — feet are considered the most impure body part; always sit with feet tucked behind you. Touching a Thai child's head — the head is the most sacred body part; the gesture offends. Discussing the royal family or the king — lèse-majesté carries up to 15 years in prison in Thailand. Take it seriously. Drinking tap water. Wearing flip-flops to a formal dinner. Not carrying cash (street carts don't take cards). Expecting fast transport at rush hour (Bangkok grinds to a biblical halt). Eating durian in your hotel room — the fruit smells so strongly that most hotels ban it, with a 500 THB fine.

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