Trekking W in Torres del Paine: 5 days, 4 nights, no illusion

The first time I did the W was in February 2017 with rented boots in Puerto Natales that gave me blisters on the second day. The second was in November 2023 with my own gear and three months of physical preparation. The difference between the two trips was stark. One was survival. The other was the trip that justified the expense.

This guide assumes you will do the W with refuges (not camping). Camping is another trail — cheaper (USD 800-1,200 total), more technical, and outside the scope of this text. Refuges mean sleeping in a bunk bed with sheets, eating three hot meals a day, and carrying a 25-35 liter backpack instead of 50-65.

The W has this shape because the trail draws a capital W on the map: French Valley in the middle, Grey Glacier Valley to the left, Towers Valley to the right. Five days is the civilized minimum. Four days is possible but cruel. Six days with an extra night at Chileno is what I recommend.

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Step by step (west to east — most used direction)

The west-east direction starts at Refugio Paine Grande (arriving by catamaran across Lake Pehoé) and ends at Refugio Las Torres. The advantage: you save Mirador Las Torres for the last day, with a view of the three towers at sunrise as the climax. The opposite direction (east-west) is technically the same but most agencies and refuges assume west-east, so it's easier to book.

Day 1 — Puerto Natales → Refugio Paine Grande

You leave Puerto Natales on the 7 am or 7:30 am bus (Bus-Sur, Buses Fernández, or Buses Pacheco — USD 22 one-way). Arrive at Portería Pudeto at 11 am. Take the 11 am or 12 pm catamaran to cross Lake Pehoé to Paine Grande (USD 38 one-way, 30 minutes). Arrive between 12:30 pm and 1 pm.

The afternoon of day 1 is light. Check-in at the refuge, lunch (usually included in full board, USD 30 separately), and a short walk. You can go to Mirador Lago Grey (4 km round trip, 1h30) or just rest to face day 2.

Day 2 — Paine Grande → Mirador Grey round trip → Paine Grande (recommended variant)

This is a key decision. There are two ways to do day 2:

Variant A — Paine Grande refuge as a base. You leave in the morning walking to Mirador Glaciar Grey (11 km, 3h30 one way, with some dramatic suspension bridges). At the viewpoint, view of the entire glacier, icebergs floating in the lake. Packed lunch (full board gives you a lunch box). Return via the same trail. 22 km in the day, 7-8 hours. Sleep at Paine Grande again.

Variant B — Paine Grande → Refugio Grey → Paine Grande the next day. You sleep at Refugio Grey (at the foot of the glacier) and return on day 3. More immersive, less tiring, costs an extra night (USD 90-130). This is the "W with 6 days" version.

I recommend variant A if you're in shape. I recommend variant B if it's your first long trail.

Day 3 — Paine Grande → Italiano → Mirador Británico → Refugio Cuernos

The longest and most beautiful day. You leave Paine Grande in the morning (departure 7 am-8 am) walking east for 7.6 km to Campamento Italiano. There, leave the big backpack at the ranger station (free), take only water, jacket, and snack, and climb the French Valley.

Ascent 5.5 km to Mirador Británico. This is the classic view of the W: granite amphitheater with the Cuernos del Paine on one side, the French Glacier falling on the other, and on clear days, view of the towers in the background. 2h30-3h ascent.

Return to Italiano (2h30), pick up the backpack, continue another 5.5 km to Refugio Cuernos. Arrive between 5 pm and 7 pm. Total of the day: 25 km, 8-10 hours. Dinner at the refuge, sleep early.

Important: the French Valley closes when the wind exceeds 80 km/h or when there is avalanche risk. In November and March, this happens 1 in 4 days. Have a plan B (descend directly to Cuernos without climbing Británico).

Day 4 — Refugio Cuernos → Refugio Chileno

11 km, 4-5 hours. Relatively flat trail, skirting Lake Nordenskjöld, with wind that can reach 100 km/h in the open section. Keep the backpack with low weight on top, rain cover at hand.

Arrival at Chileno between 1 pm and 4 pm. Lunch, rest. You have the option to climb that afternoon to Mirador Las Torres (8 km round trip, 3-4 hours, last steep section on moraine), but most leave it for the next day.

Why I recommend sleeping two nights at Chileno: sunrise at the towers fails 60% of the days due to clouds. If you only have one morning, it depends on luck. With two, you have an 84% chance of catching at least one clear morning (composite probability). Costs USD 90-130 for the extra night. Worth it.

Day 5 — Chileno → Mirador Las Torres → Refugio Torres Central → Puerto Natales

Wake up at 4 am. Departure at 4:30 am. 4 km walk with a headlamp through the Ascencio Valley, then 1.5 km of steep moraine (literally climbing between rocks, in the dark). Arrival at Mirador Las Torres between 6:30 am and 7 am, depending on the month.

The sunrise itself: the sun rises in the east and hits the peaks of the three towers first, turning them red-orange for 15-30 minutes. Below, Lake Torres still dark. It's the photo you've seen a thousand times. When it works, it justifies everything.

When it doesn't (closed cloud), you have three options: wait (it may clear between 9 am and 11 am), descend and return the next day (if you booked two nights), or descend accepting defeat and count it as a story.

Descent 6 km to Refugio Chileno (collect big backpack), plus 7 km to Refugio Torres Central. 13 km descent in total. Lunch at Central. Bus back to Puerto Natales (Laguna Amarga → Puerto Natales, 2h30, USD 22).

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Mandatory equipment (specific model)

This is not a "take this, it might be useful" list. It's a list of what prevents you from getting injured, soaked, or hypothermic.

Boots. Salomon X-Ultra 4 Mid GTX (Goretex, mid-cut, 380g) or La Sportiva Ultra Raptor II Mid GTX (heavier, more robust, 480g). Do not use running shoes. Do not use new boots never worn — break in with at least 60 km before the trip.

Backpack. 45-55 liters with load system (wide belt, torso adjustment). Osprey Ariel 55 (women's) or Aether 55 (unisex), Deuter Aircontact Lite 50+10. Waist should support 70% of the weight, not the shoulder.

Hardshell jacket. Goretex Pro or Pro Shell — not cheap. Patagonia Triolet, Arc'teryx Beta AR, or Mountain Hardwear Exposure 2. Do not use "waterproof" jacket without technical membrane. Patagonia's wind cuts through.

Thermal layers. 2 merino wool base layers (Icebreaker, Smartwool — 200g/m²). 1 intermediate fleece (Patagonia R1 or equivalent). 1 light down jacket (Patagonia Down Sweater or Uniqlo Ultra Light, yes, it works).

Pants. Stretchy, quick-drying trekking pants (Prana, Fjällräven, Decathlon Quechua). Separate rain pants as backup.

Accessories. Thin gloves + thick gloves (two-layer system), wool hat, buff (covers neck and face against wind), mandatory UV400 sunglasses (Patagonian sun is strong), trekking poles (Black Diamond Distance Carbon Z or equivalent — not optional, your knees will thank you).

Sleeping bag. Not needed if you only sleep in refuges (they provide sheet and blanket). If you want comfort, take a silk sleeping liner (200g).

Daypack. Small backpack 18-25L for weightless climbs (Británico, Las Torres). Can be the Salomon Trail 20 or similar.

Hydration. Camelbak 2L + 1 rigid bottle 1L. Patagonia's water is drinkable straight from rivers and waterfalls inside the park — this is one of the few regions in the world where this is still true. Do not buy PET bottles.

Electronics. Power bank 20,000 mAh (refuges have outlets but scarce, no guarantee). Headlamp Petzl Actik Core or Black Diamond Spot 400. Camera or phone with spare battery.

First aid. Adhesive tape (Compeed for blisters), ibuprofen, anti-inflammatory, SPF 50+ sunscreen, cocoa butter for lips (sun + wind cracks lips in 6 hours).

Food. Energy snacks for the trail (Clif bars, Snickers, dried fruits, cheese). Refuges serve three meals but you need intermediate calories. Estimate: 600 kcal/day in snacks besides meals.

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When to go (month by month)

The W window is October to mid-March. Each month has nuances.

October. Austral spring. Refuges open on the 1st. Some trails still have snow on high viewpoints (Británico may be closed first half). Moderate wind (average 40-60 km/h). 30% fewer people than December. Recommend if you want spring landscape and tolerate uncertainty.

November. Excellent. All trails open. Stable wind (50-70 km/h). Temperature: 5-15°C. Guanaco pups born (seen in Laguna Amarga). Reservations still possible 4 months in advance. My top recommendation.

December. High season begins. Reservations must have been made in July. Full refuges. Average wind 60-100 km/h. Temperature 10-18°C. Beautiful but expensive and crowded.

January. Absolute peak. Strongest wind of the year (gusts 130 km/h). Saturated refuges. Park daily limits (250 entries on the W) saturate by 9 am. Price spikes. Avoid.

February. Same as January, slightly better (less wind than January, still crowded). High prices.

March. The turnaround. Austral autumn begins second half — lengas start turning orange. Fewer people (40% less than February). Moderate wind. Temperature 5-15°C. Second best option after November.

April. Refuges start closing on the 15th. You can do early April but with risk of weather turning and closing trails.

May to September. Trail officially closed. Access only with certified guide in winter mode — outside the scope of this guide.

Reservations in 2026 (CONAF system + concessionaires)

The W has two categories of accommodation:

CONAF refuges (state-owned). Paine Grande, Grey, Italiano (camping only), Cuernos, Chileno, Torres Central. Operated by two concessionaires: Fantástico Sur (Cuernos, Chileno, Torres Central, Las Torres) and Vértice Patagonia (Paine Grande, Grey, Dickson, Los Perros).

Reservations open in July 2026 for the October 2026 - March 2027 season. Works online via:

• vertice.travel (Vértice)
• fantasticosur.com (Fantástico Sur)

Reserve the minute it opens. December to February dates sell out in 2-4 weeks. November and March: 2 months margin.

Refuge cost with full board: USD 120-180 per night per person (breakfast + lunch box + dinner).

EcoCamp Patagonia. The famous geodesic domes in the Las Torres sector. Operated by Cascada Expediciones. Not part of the traditional W (they are off the trail) but offer "W in EcoCamp" packages where you sleep at EcoCamp and do day-trips. Cost: USD 2,800-4,500 for 5 days all-inclusive. Expensive but returns 31% to the local community of Puerto Natales.

Hotel Las Torres. Full hotel in the eastern sector of the park. USD 450-680/night. Usually combined with organized package.

Organized packages (Cascada Expediciones, Chile Nativo, Quasar Expeditions) cost USD 2,500-4,500 for 5 days with full board, bilingual guide, transport, and logistics resolved. Worth it if you don't want to book individual refuge or if traveling in a group of 3+.

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Total cost (5 days, 4 nights, refuges full board)

Option 1 — Individual reservation via refuges (do it yourself):

• Bus Puerto Natales-park round trip: USD 44
• Catamaran Pudeto-Paine Grande: USD 38
• Park entrance (3 days, international): USD 49
• Refugio Paine Grande (1 night, full board): USD 145
• Refugio Cuernos (1 night, full board): USD 155
• Refugio Chileno (2 nights, full board): USD 310
• Refugio Torres Central (1 night, optional day 5): USD 130
• Extra lunch boxes: USD 60
• Total trail: USD 931
• Hotel Puerto Natales pre + post (2 nights): USD 180
• Equipment if renting (not recommended, but possible in Puerto Natales): USD 350
• Estimated total: USD 1,800-2,100 without own equipment.

Option 2 — Organized package (Cascada, Chile Nativo):

• 5 days, 4 nights, refuges, bilingual guide, full board, transport: USD 2,500-3,500
• Own equipment (do not rent from package, poor quality).

Option 3 — EcoCamp Patagonia (luxury):

• 5 nights, geodesic dome, all meals, guide, transport: USD 3,200-4,500
• This is the "trail without big backpack" version.

International flight GRU → Punta Arenas (via Santiago): USD 1,200-1,800 in October/March, USD 1,800-2,500 in December/January.

Total trip from Brazil including flight, with option 1: USD 3,000-3,900 per person. With package: USD 3,700-5,300.

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Physical preparation (3 months before)

The W is not technical. No climbing, ropes, ice. But it requires load conditioning: you walk 5-9 hours a day, 5 days in a row, with an 8-15 kg backpack, on uneven terrain and wind.

Minimum 12-week plan:

• Weeks 1-4: walk 5 km, 3x/week, flat terrain.
• Weeks 5-8: walk 8-10 km with a 5 kg backpack, 3x/week, including ascent.
• Weeks 9-12: walk 12-15 km with an 8-10 kg backpack, 2x/week + 1 long outing (20 km) with real weight on the weekend.

Include stair climbing (if no hill) — the French Valley and Las Torres have 600 m positive elevation each.

If you've never walked 20 km in a day with weight, do it at least twice before the trip. The first W with unprepared feet is torture.

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The hard part: what can go wrong

Blisters. The #1 cause of people quitting on day 2. Solution: worn boots (not new), wool socks (not cotton), change socks at noon, pre-applied Compeed on risk points (heel, side of big toe).

Extreme wind. The day the wind exceeds 100 km/h, trekking becomes suffering. Maintain slow pace, low weight in the center of the backpack, glasses always. Some suspension bridges close when wind exceeds 80 km/h.

Mild hypothermia. Happens to people who sweat on the ascent, take off jacket, cool down when stopped. Rule: don't stay stopped more than 10 minutes without putting extra jacket back on.

Accumulated fatigue. Day 3 is where most break. Take care of day 2 (don't overdo it, sleep early). Eat more than you think necessary. Hydrate.

Cloud on the towers. Real statistic: in 100 days of the season, 35-40 mornings have a clear view. The rest ranges from partial fog to total cloud. Accept this before going. If the view fails, the W was still worth it for the other 4 days.

Injury. Knee is the most common (descent on day 5 destroys unprepared knee). Trekking poles reduce 30% of the load. Strengthen quadriceps before (squats, stairs).

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What no one tells you

The W is not solitude. You will cross 80-200 people per day on the trail in season. Accept this. The magic is not in being alone — it's in being in a place that hasn't yet been solved by human engineering.

The food in the refuges is decent, not memorable. Carbs + protein + greens. Don't expect gourmet dinner. Breakfast: eggs, bread, cheese, jam, coffee. Lunch (lunch box): sandwich, fruit, bar, juice. Dinner: soup, main course (chicken, salmon, or pasta), dessert.

The bathrooms in the refuges are bathrooms — not glamping. Hot shower exists, with schedule (usually 6 pm-10 pm).

Wi-fi is weak to nonexistent. Agree with home that you'll only appear on WhatsApp on the fifth day. For many, this is the best part of the trip.

The W changes you if it's your first long trail. Not in the sense of enlightenment — in the practical sense of discovering that your body can handle more than you imagined and that 5-day silence is a strong drug.

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