I spent a week in Seoul in April 2026 without speaking a single word of Korean beyond "kamsahamnida" (thank you). I survived. More than that — the city ran better than Paris, better than Tokyo, better than any European capital. Here's what I learned testing transit, food, neighborhoods, and the real math of what it costs.
12 min read
I arrived in Seoul expecting K-drama: cute cafés, handsome oppa, romantic drama under a cherry tree. I left with something different — deep respect for a city that runs like a Swiss watch, eats better than Tokyo, and costs half of Paris.
Seoul isn't a "photogenic" city. No Eiffel, no Colosseum, no NYC skyline. It's a city of layers: peel one, find another, and before you know it 7 days went by without getting bored.
This guide is what worked testing transit, street food, neighborhoods, palaces, markets, cafés, bars, everything. First time in Seoul? Read this before you book a flight.
Arrival: Incheon Airport → Downtown (logistics that work)
TL;DRIncheon → Seoul transit options: | Mode | Time | Cost | Comfort | Recommendation | |---|---|---|---|---| | AREX (express train) | 43 min direct to Seoul Station | KRW 10,300 (~USD 7.70) | Excellent. Reserved seat, free wi-fi. | Best value.
Incheon → Seoul transit options:
| Mode | Time | Cost | Comfort | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| AREX (express train) | 43 min direct to Seoul Station | KRW 10,300 (~USD 7.70) | Excellent. Reserved seat, free wi-fi. | Best value. |
| Subway line 1 | 60-75 min (every stop) | KRW 4,750 (~USD 3.55) | Good but packed during rush. | If hotel is on line 1 direct. |
| Airport Limousine Bus | 60-90 min (traffic-dependent) | KRW 16,000 (~USD 12) | Comfortable, big luggage hold. | If hotel is in Gangnam/Myeongdong. |
| Taxi | 50-70 min | KRW 70,000-90,000 (~USD 52-67) | Max comfort but pricey. | Only after 11pm (subway closes). |
What I did: AREX direct to Seoul Station. Bought T-Money card at airport (automatic machine in English), loaded KRW 20,000 (~USD 15), took the train. 43 minutes later I was downtown. Transferred to the blue line (line 4), 3 stops, arrived at the Airbnb in Hongdae.
Total: KRW 12,500 (~USD 9.35) airport → Airbnb door. In Paris this would cost EUR 30+.
Pocket Wi-Fi: rented it at the SK Telecom counter inside the airport. KRW 5,500/day (~USD 4.10), unlimited, 10-hour battery, connects 5 devices. Picked up on arrival, returned on departure. Essential — without it you're blind (translation apps, Naver Maps, Kakao Map, all need internet).
Where to stay (I tested 3 neighborhoods, 1 won)
TL;DRHongdae (stayed 5 nights): University district, packed with indie cafés, vintage shops, street food, bars, live music. Subway line 2 (green), easy access anywhere. Airbnb studio: USD 55/night. Modern, clean, good bed, equipped kitchen, GS25 right below the building. Vibe: young, noisy until 11pm (then quiet), authentic.
Hongdae (stayed 5 nights): University district, packed with indie cafés, vintage shops, street food, bars, live music. Subway line 2 (green), easy access anywhere.
- Airbnb studio: USD 55/night. Modern, clean, good bed, equipped kitchen, GS25 right below the building.
- Vibe: young, noisy until 11pm (then quiet), authentic.
- Verdict: Best neighborhood for a first visit. Central, cheap, good but not over-the-top nightlife.
Itaewon (slept 2 nights in a hotel): International district, lots of expats, restaurants from every cuisine, bars, clubs. Close to Namsan Tower.
- Hotel: USD 95/night (mid-range, breakfast included).
- Vibe: cosmopolitan, less "Korean," pricier.
- Verdict: Good if you want Western comforts (burger, pizza, European beer). But it loses local charm.
Gangnam (visited, didn't sleep): Business district, massive mall (COEX Mall), skyscrapers, inflated prices. It's Seoul's "Manhattan."
- Hotel: USD 140-220/night.
- Vibe: rich, clean, soulless.
- Verdict: Skip it. Gangnam Style is a meme, not an itinerary.
Honorable mention — Bukchon Hanok Village: Traditional houses (hanok) turned guesthouses. Beautiful but far from subway, too quiet for a first trip. Save it for next time.
Public transit: better than Tokyo, cheaper than anywhere
TL;DRSeoul subway: 23 lines, 700+ stations, all signed in English. Kakao Metro app shows route, time, transfers, cost. Works offline (download the map first). How to use the T-Money card: 1. Buy it at any GS25, CU, 7-Eleven, or subway machine (KRW 4,000 card + balance).
Seoul subway: 23 lines, 700+ stations, all signed in English. Kakao Metro app shows route, time, transfers, cost. Works offline (download the map first).
How to use the T-Money card:
- Buy it at any GS25, CU, 7-Eleven, or subway machine (KRW 4,000 card + balance).
- Top up (minimum KRW 1,000). Machine takes cash, international card works 70% of the time (tested Visa, it worked).
- Tap at the gate on entry (green beep). Tap on exit (deducts fare).
- Works for subway + bus + taxi + convenience stores. One card does it all.
Real cost (7 days):
Used subway 4-6x per day. Total spent: KRW 42,000 (USD 31.40). In Paris, a 7-day unlimited pass costs EUR 30 (USD 33) but the subway is dirty and slow. Here every ride is 1/3 the price and on time.
Bus: Took it 2x (when subway closed at 11:30pm). Kakao Map shows the line, stop, time. Same T-Money card. Driver doesn't speak English but the app's GPS tells you when to get off. KRW 1,400 per ride.
Where to eat (from KRW 5,000 to KRW 80,000)
TL;DRStreet food (Myeongdong, Gwangjang Market): Tteokbokki (spicy rice cake): KRW 3,000-5,000. Addictive. Hotteok (sweet pancake with brown sugar): KRW 2,000. Eat it hot. Gimbap (sushi-like roll): KRW 3,500-5,000. Full meal for USD 3.50. Odeng (fish skewer in broth): KRW 1,000 per stick.
Street food (Myeongdong, Gwangjang Market):
- Tteokbokki (spicy rice cake): KRW 3,000-5,000. Addictive.
- Hotteok (sweet pancake with brown sugar): KRW 2,000. Eat it hot.
- Gimbap (sushi-like roll): KRW 3,500-5,000. Full meal for USD 3.50.
- Odeng (fish skewer in broth): KRW 1,000 per stick. Broth is free (help yourself, drink, return the cup). Total: KRW 10,000 (~USD 7.50) to eat until you can't anymore.
Local restaurant (any neighborhood):
- Bibimbap: KRW 8,000-10,000. Comes with banchan (kimchi, bean sprouts, seaweed, spinach, fried egg — all free and refillable).
- Kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew): KRW 9,000. Strong, spicy, perfect in cold weather.
- Sundubu jjigae (spicy soft tofu): KRW 10,000. Comes with unlimited rice. Total: KRW 10,000-12,000 (~USD 7.50-9) full meal + endless banchan.
Korean BBQ (Mapo-gu, Hongdae):
- Samgyeopsal (pork belly grilled at the table): KRW 15,000/portion (200g). Order 2-3 portions for 2 people.
- Comes with: lettuce, raw garlic, kimchi, ssamjang (paste), rice. You build the wrap yourself (lettuce + meat + garlic + sauce).
- Soju (distilled spirit, 16-20% ABV): KRW 4,000 a bottle. Goes down easy, hits hard. Total: KRW 60,000-80,000 for 2 (~USD 45-60). Best dining experience of the trip.
Coffee (Seoul is the world capital of specialty coffee):
- Americano: KRW 4,500-6,000 (~USD 3.40-4.50). Absurd quality — single origin beans, baristas who take it seriously.
- I tested 12 different cafés (Felt, Anthracite, Namusairo, Fritz). None were bad.
- Aesthetic: minimalist, concrete, wood, natural light. Instagram perfect but the coffee is actually good, not just pretty.
Avoid: restaurants with food photos by the door (tourist trap, 2x price, half the quality). Go where Koreans are eating.
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What to do (besides eat)
TL;DRGyeongbokgung Palace (main palace): Entry: KRW 3,000 (~USD 2.25). Wearing hanbok (rented traditional dress) gets you in free. Changing of the guard: 10am and 2pm (20-min ritual, photogenic). Size: huge. Full visit 2-3 hours. Tip: rent hanbok at a shop near the palace (KRW 20,000/day ~USD 15), wear it, take photos, enter for free, save the fee + gain an.
Gyeongbokgung Palace (main palace):
- Entry: KRW 3,000 (~USD 2.25). Wearing hanbok (rented traditional dress) gets you in free.
- Changing of the guard: 10am and 2pm (20-min ritual, photogenic).
- Size: huge. Full visit 2-3 hours.
- Tip: rent hanbok at a shop near the palace (KRW 20,000/day ~USD 15), wear it, take photos, enter for free, save the fee + gain an experience.
Bukchon Hanok Village (traditional houses):
- Free. Residential neighborhood with preserved historic architecture.
- Best time: 8-10am (no tourists, good light). After 11am it turns into Disneyland (groups of 50 selfie-taking tourists on every corner).
- Don't enter private homes (signs say "private residence" — respect them).
Insadong (craft and tea street):
- Hanji paper shops, calligraphy, ceramics, traditional tea.
- Ssamziegil (vertical mall with indie stores): free entry, 4 floors of authentic Korean craft.
- Osulloc Tea House: matcha green tea latte KRW 6,500 (~USD 4.90). Better than Starbucks.
Ikseon-dong Hanok Village (modern version of Bukchon):
- Traditional houses turned into hip cafés, bars, restaurants.
- Less touristy than Bukchon, younger crowd, more nightlife.
- Best at night: lights on, music, perfect vibe.
Namsan Tower (N Seoul Tower):
- Cable car: KRW 11,000 round trip (~USD 8.25). 360° view of Seoul.
- Best time: sunset (5:30-6:30pm in April). The city lights up, it's gorgeous.
- Love locks on the deck: cliché but Koreans take it seriously. Couples everywhere.
Gwangjang Market (traditional market):
- Open since 1905. Authentic street food (not for tourists, for Koreans).
- Bindaetteok (fried mung bean pancake): KRW 5,000. Crispy, greasy, addictive.
- Mayak gimbap (addictive rolls — the name means "drug"): KRW 3,000. Small, sweet, you'll eat 10 without realizing.
- Hours: 9am-11pm. Best: 6-9pm (everything fresh, busy, energetic).
Avoid: Lotte World (mediocre, overpriced amusement park), Gangnam Style statue (snap a photo, regret it 5 seconds later).
Café culture: Seoul > Melbourne
TL;DRSeoul has 17,000+ cafés. Not Starbucks — indie specialty cafés run by baristas obsessed with extraction, beans, temperature. Cafés worth testing: Anthracite (Hapjeong): coffee roastery in an industrial building. Americano KRW 5,500. Ethiopian beans. Perfect. Felt (Seongsu-dong): minimalist café in a former shoe factory.
Seoul has 17,000+ cafés. Not Starbucks — indie specialty cafés run by baristas obsessed with extraction, beans, temperature.
Cafés worth testing:
- Anthracite (Hapjeong): coffee roastery in an industrial building. Americano KRW 5,500. Ethiopian beans. Perfect.
- Felt (Seongsu-dong): minimalist café in a former shoe factory. Brutal aesthetic.
- Namusairo (Yeonnam-dong): hidden café down a small lane. Homemade carrot cake KRW 6,000. Absurd natural light.
- Fritz Coffee Company (Mapo-gu): in-house roasting. Pourover KRW 7,000. Takes 8 min to brew (in a good way).
Koreans go to cafés to work (laptop open, headphones, 3 hours sitting). Servers don't rush you. Wi-fi always free. Outlet at every table.
Shopping: K-beauty, clothes, skincare
TL;DROlive Young (drugstore/cosmetic chain): Korean equivalent of Sephora but 1/3 the price. Sheet mask: KRW 1,500-3,000 (~USD 1.10-2.25). I bought 30 and brought them home. Sunscreen (Biore, Missha, Cosrx): KRW 12,000-18,000. Better texture than Western brands. A store in every neighborhood.
Olive Young (drugstore/cosmetic chain):
- Korean equivalent of Sephora but 1/3 the price.
- Sheet mask: KRW 1,500-3,000 (~USD 1.10-2.25). I bought 30 and brought them home.
- Sunscreen (Biore, Missha, Cosrx): KRW 12,000-18,000. Better texture than Western brands.
- A store in every neighborhood. Accepts international cards, tax refund available (keep the receipt).
Myeongdong (shopping district):
- Pedestrian street lined with cosmetics, clothes, accessories.
- Touristy but prices still OK. Vendors speak basic English ("20% discount today only!" — lie, there's always a discount).
- Innisfree, The Face Shop, Etude House: cheap Korean brands. 10-pack of sheet masks: KRW 10,000 (~USD 7.50).
Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP):
- Futuristic building (architect Zaha Hadid). Massive mall.
- Night market: 10pm-5am (yes, overnight). Wholesale clothes, very cheap but variable quality.
- Better for architecture-spotting than shopping.
K-pop, K-drama: is it worth visiting "filming locations"?
TL;DRHonestly? No. I went to 3 "famous K-drama spots" (the Goblin café, the Reply 1988 staircase, the Crash Landing on You park). The experience: you show up, snap a photo, realize it was just... a normal staircase. Two hours wasted.
Honestly? No. I went to 3 "famous K-drama spots" (the Goblin café, the Reply 1988 staircase, the Crash Landing on You park). The experience: you show up, snap a photo, realize it was just... a normal staircase. Two hours wasted.
Exception: if you're a hardcore fan and want to "be where oppa was," fine. But it's not itinerary-worthy. Better: watch the K-drama before going, identify the neighborhood (not the exact spot), go to the neighborhood, feel the vibe.
K-pop: SM Town, JYP, HYBE Insight (BTS museum). K-pop fans will love it. Non-fans will see... a boy band museum. Entry KRW 22,000 (~USD 16.50). Skip if you're not a fan.
How much it costs (real total, 7 days, solo traveler)
TL;DR| Item | USD | |---|---| | Flight (not included — depends on origin) | — | | Airbnb Hongdae (5 nights) + Hotel Itaewon (2 nights) | USD 465 | | Food (GS25 breakfast + restaurant lunch + dinner + snacks) | USD 210 | | Transit (AREX + T-Money 7 days + 2 taxis) | USD 55 |.
| Item | USD |
|---|---|
| Flight (not included — depends on origin) | — |
| Airbnb Hongdae (5 nights) + Hotel Itaewon (2 nights) | USD 465 |
| Food (GS25 breakfast + restaurant lunch + dinner + snacks) | USD 210 |
| Transit (AREX + T-Money 7 days + 2 taxis) | USD 55 |
| Attractions (Gyeongbokgung + N Tower + hanbok rental + museums) | USD 45 |
| Pocket Wi-Fi (7 days) | USD 29 |
| Shopping (skincare, masks, souvenirs) | USD 85 |
| TOTAL (excluding flight) | USD 889 |
Per day: USD 127 (lodging included).
Cutting the hotel and staying only in Airbnb: USD 725 total (USD 103/day).
Seoul is cheap by developed-metropolis standards. Cheaper than Tokyo, Paris, London, NYC — but quality is equal or better.
Key points
T-Money card (public transit) costs KRW 4,000 (~USD 3) + reloadable balance. Subway/bus: KRW 1,400 per ride (~USD 1.05). Top up at any GS25 or CU (24-hour convenience stores on every corner).
Unlimited pocket Wi-Fi at Incheon airport: KRW 5,500/day (~USD 4.10). Essential — Google Maps works flawlessly in Korean, instant translation apps save your life.
Airbnb in Hongdae or Itaewon: USD 45-75/night (modern studio, clean, subway 3 min away). Mid-range hotel: USD 90-140/night. Hanok (traditional house) in Bukchon: USD 120-200/night.
Frequently asked questions
Yes, 100%. Subway is all in English. Translation apps (Papago beats Google Translate for Korean) work instantly. Restaurant staff don't speak English but menus have photos — point and order. Google Maps + Kakao Map navigate you flawlessly. I learned 5 words: kamsahamnida (thank you), annyeonghaseyo (hi), ne (yes), aniyo (no), eolmayeyo (how much). Survived. Honestly, Seoul's subway is easier than Paris's (and there you "speak" French).
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About the author
Curadoria Voyspark
2 years in the Voyspark editorial team
Time editorial da Voyspark — escritores, repórteres, fotógrafos e fixers em Lisboa, Tóquio, Nova York, Cidade do México e Marrakech. Coletivo. Sem voz corporativa. Cada peça com checagem cruzada por um editor regional e um chef ou curador local.
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