Tokyo is the most populous city on the planet and the quietest you will visit. Americans show up thinking they will pull all-nighters in Shibuya, discover everything closes by midnight, and take three days to figure out the JR Pass does not always pay off. This is the 7-day itinerary I wish I had been handed before landing — neighborhood by neighborhood, with real costs in yen and dollars, and the list of what is not worth your time.
17 min read
Tokyo breaks two American expectations on arrival. First: you expected Times Square chaos in Shibuya — you get it, but only for four blocks. The rest of the city is quiet, ordered, almost suburban. Second: you expected the future — you find fax machines in four-star hotels, cash still runs Michelin restaurants, and the subway has 13 lines from different operators that barely talk to each other.
Seven days is the minimum to not leave frustrated. Five days only covers central Tokyo. Ten days lets you add Kyoto and Osaka.
This itinerary is Tokyo proper plus two day-trips: Hakone (Mt. Fuji) and Kamakura. A standard couple spends $3,500-5,500 with flights, depending on season.
Day 0 — Haneda or Narita arrival, and why it changes everything
TL;DRIf your United or ANA flight lands at Haneda (HND), lucky you. Haneda is 14km from the center, you reach Shibuya in 30 minutes by monorail or Limousine Bus. Narita (NRT) is 70km out.
If your United, Delta, or ANA flight lands at Haneda (HND), lucky you. Haneda is 14km from the center, you reach Shibuya in 30 minutes by monorail or Limousine Bus.
If you land at Narita (NRT), brace yourself: it is 70km to Tokyo. Options:
- Narita Express (N'EX): ¥3,070 ($20), 60 minutes to Shinjuku. JR Pass covers it. Trains on the hour.
- Keisei Skyliner: ¥2,580 ($17), 41 minutes to Ueno. Faster, no JR Pass.
- Limousine Bus: ¥3,200 ($21), 90 minutes, drops you at your hotel door. Best option with luggage if you arrive after 9pm.
Taxi from Narita to Shinjuku runs ¥25,000 ($170). Don't do that.
Buy your Suica or Pasmo at the airport counter — rechargeable card that works on every subway, bus, konbini (convenience store), and most vending machines. Load ¥5,000 to start and use Apple Wallet for digital Suica (Android has a virtual version too).
Day 1 — Shinjuku as base and first culture shock
TL;DRStay in west Shinjuku or Shibuya. Most central and best transit-served. Mid-range hotel (Sotetsu Grand Fresa, Shinjuku Granbell) runs $100-130/night. Want luxury? Park Hyatt Tokyo (the Lost in Translation hotel) runs $650.
Stay in west Shinjuku or Shibuya. Most central and best-served by transit. Mid-range hotel (Sotetsu Grand Fresa, Shinjuku Granbell) runs $100-130/night. Want luxury? Park Hyatt Tokyo (the Lost in Translation hotel) runs $650.
Want to really cut cost? Capsule hotel decent: Nine Hours Shinjuku or First Cabin ($35-55). You sleep in a tube, communal bathroom by gender, backpack in a locker. It works, but by day three you want a real room.
On day one, stay close. Start at Shinjuku Gyoen (park, ¥500, $3.30). Lunch at Omoide Yokocho — yakitori alley running 60 years, next to the station. Dishes $3-6. Post-war atmosphere, charcoal smoke. Go hungry, point without understanding. At night, ride the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (45th floor, 360° view, free).
Skip the Robot Restaurant. It closed in 2020, and even what reopened (Samurai Restaurant) is a tourist trap at $120 per person.
Day 2 — Shibuya, Harajuku, Omotesando
TL;DRGo early. Shibuya Crossing at 9am is cleaner than 7pm. Climb Shibuya Sky (¥2,500, $17, book online a week ahead) for crossing views from above and Mt. Fuji on clear days. Best observation deck in Tokyo.
Go early. Shibuya Crossing at 9am is cleaner than 7pm. Climb Shibuya Sky (¥2,500, $17, book online a week ahead) for crossing views from above and Mt. Fuji on clear days. Best observation deck in Tokyo.
Walk 15 minutes to Harajuku. Takeshita Street is Disney for Japanese teens — skip. What's worth it is the parallel: Cat Street, connecting Harajuku to Omotesando. Indie shops, rare sneakers, hidden cafés.
Lunch at Maisen Aoyama — tonkatsu (breaded pork) considered the city's best. Set with miso and rice $14.
Afternoon, Meiji Jingu (Shinto shrine, free, 700,000 m² of forest in the middle of the city). 40-minute walk from entrance to sanctuary.
Night, Nonbei Yokocho — post-war bar alley in Shibuya near Hachiko. Each bar seats 6. Beer ¥800, no English menu. Point at what your neighbor is drinking.
Day 3 — Asakusa, Akihabara, Ueno (old Tokyo + tech)
TL;DRStart at Asakusa — 19th-century Tokyo. Senso-ji is the city's oldest Buddhist temple (628 AD). Go at 7am to dodge crowds. Nakamise-dori (200m of 89 little shops) opens 9:30am. Lunch at Daikokuya Tempura (founded 1887) — tempura over rice with sweet sauce.
Start at Asakusa — 19th-century Tokyo. Senso-ji is the city's oldest Buddhist temple (628 AD). Go at 7am to dodge crowds. Nakamise-dori (200m of 89 little shops) opens 9:30am.
Lunch at Daikokuya Tempura (founded 1887) — tempura over rice with sweet sauce. $12.
Take the Ginza Line to Ueno. Alt lunch: Ameyoko Market (post-war market, fried food, seafood). Ueno Park has the Tokyo National Museum (¥1,000, $6.70) — samurai and Buddhist art collection that earns two hours.
After Ueno, go to Akihabara. Yodobashi Camera (8 floors of electronics) and Mandarake (manga and retro toys). Themed café is an expensive trap (¥3,000 cover + drinks); for the experience go to @home cafe Donki Akihabara for ¥1,500.
Night, back to Shinjuku, dinner at Tsunahachi (tempura, $16) or Ichiran Ramen (private booth, order via paper slip, $7).
Day 4 — Tsukiji Outer Market and Ginza
TL;DRTsukiji changed in 2018. The tuna auction market moved to Toyosu (worth a 5:30am trip if you are sushi-obsessed). Tsukiji Outer Market stays put and is more accessible: alleyways with 400 seafood stalls, street sushi, sweet egg (tamagoyaki) on a stick for $1.
Tsukiji changed in 2018. The tuna auction market moved to Toyosu (worth a 5:30am trip if you are sushi-obsessed). Tsukiji Outer Market stays put and is more accessible: alleyways with 400 seafood stalls, street sushi, sweet egg (tamagoyaki) on a stick for $1.
Breakfast: Sushi Dai or Daiwa Sushi (¥4,500-5,000, $30-33) — counter omakase. 2-hour line, go at 6am. No-line alternative: Sushizanmai (6 stores in Tsukiji, $8-15 nigiri).
Walk 25 minutes to Ginza. Luxury and architecture district. Ginza Six, Itoya (12-story stationery store, shop Midori notebooks) and Uniqlo Ginza flagship (12 floors).
Want Kabuki? Kabuki-za sells single-act tickets for ¥1,500 ($10) — 1 hour without booking the full 4-hour program.
Serious sushi dinner? Sushi Saito is closed to tourists. Sushi Yoshitake (3 Michelin stars) costs $300 and requires hotel concierge booking 3 months ahead. Accessible and excellent: Sushi Tokami (Ginza) for $120.
Day 5 — Day trip to Hakone and Mt. Fuji
TL;DRHakone is 90 minutes from Tokyo by Shinkansen + regional train. Buy the Hakone Free Pass (¥6,100, $41) at Shinjuku station — covers round-trip transit plus all cable cars, trams and boats inside Hakone.
Hakone is 90 minutes from Tokyo by Shinkansen + regional train. Buy the Hakone Free Pass (¥6,100, $41) at Shinjuku station — covers round-trip transit plus all cable cars, trams and boats inside Hakone.
Standard full-day itinerary:
- Shinjuku → Hakone-Yumoto (Romance Car, 1h20)
- Hakone-Yumoto → Gora (mountain train, 40min)
- Gora → Sounzan (funicular, 10min)
- Sounzan → Owakudani (cable car over active volcano, 20min) — buy the black egg (¥500/4 units), boiled in sulfuric springs, legend says it adds 7 years to your life
- Owakudani → Togendai (cable car, 25min)
- Togendai → Hakone-machi (pirate boat over Lake Ashi, 30min) — Mt. Fuji in the background if skies clear
- Back to Tokyo (3h)
Best chance to see Fuji: October to February, morning. July-August clouds cover 80% of days.
Want to stay one night and take an onsen (thermal bath)? Book Hakone Suishoen or Tensui Saryo — ryokan with private onsen for $350/night with kaiseki dinner. Tattoos are banned in public onsen; private ryokan solves that.
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Day 6 — Kamakura (cultural alternative to Hakone)
TL;DRIf you already did Hakone or prefer temple + beach: Kamakura. 50 minutes by train (¥940 one-way, $6) from Tokyo Station via JR Yokosuka Line. Japan's capital between 1185 and 1333, Kamakura has 65 Buddhist temples in a 4km radius.
If you already did Hakone or prefer temple + beach: Kamakura. 50 minutes by train (¥940 one-way, $6) from Tokyo Station via JR Yokosuka Line.
Japan's capital between 1185 and 1333, Kamakura has 65 Buddhist temples in a 4km radius. Itinerary:
- Kotoku-in — the Great Buddha (13m, bronze, 13th c.). ¥300.
- Hasedera — temple on the hill with Sagami Bay view. ¥400.
- Komachi-dori — commercial street with 200 small shops. Buy murasaki imo (purple sweet potato ice cream).
- Hokokuji — "Bamboo Temple", Japan's most photographed bamboo forest (after Arashiyama). ¥300 + ¥600 for matcha tea served seated among bamboo.
- Tsurugaoka Hachimangu — main Shinto shrine, free.
Return via Enoshima (small island connected by bridge, beautiful sunset). The Enoden train cuts the route — one of Japan's most beautiful railway lines, passing 2 meters from house windows.
Day 7 — neighborhood your choice: Yanaka (slow) or Roppongi (luxury)
TL;DRLast day to wrap up. Two choices: Yanaka — Tokyo that survived the 1945 bombing. Wooden houses, 19th-century shops, cemetery with 7,000 cherry trees in spring. Walk Yanaka Ginza — commercial street with 70 family stores, $1 croquettes, $2 grilled fish.
Last day to wrap up. Two choices:
Yanaka — Tokyo that survived the 1945 bombing. Wooden houses, 19th-century shops, cemetery with 7,000 cherry trees in spring. Walk Yanaka Ginza — commercial street with 70 family stores, $1 croquettes, $2 grilled fish. SCAI The Bathhouse — contemporary art gallery in a 200-year-old public bathhouse.
Roppongi — luxury, museums, views. Mori Art Museum (¥2,300, $15) + Tokyo City View (included) on the Mori Tower 52nd floor. TeamLab Borderless moved to Azabudai Hills in 2024 — ¥3,800 ($25), book 2 weeks ahead. Immersive installation, 2 hours minimum.
Last night: Golden Gai in Shinjuku. 200 bars in 6 post-war alleys. Each bar seats 5-8. Cover ¥500-1,500 (charges some tourists), drinks ¥800. Bar Albatross, Bar Champion, Death Match in Hell (yes that is the name) are tourist-friendly.
Food — what's worth $60 vs $6
TL;DRTokyo has more Michelin restaurants than Paris (226 vs 118 in 2024). But the best food in the city is outside the Michelin guide.
Tokyo has more Michelin restaurants than Paris (226 vs 118 in 2024). But the best food in the city is outside the Michelin guide.
| Category | Where | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Counter sushi (mid omakase) | Sushi Tokami, Sushi Tsubaki | $120-240 |
| Excellent sushi without ritual | Sushizanmai, Sushiro (kaiten) | $8-30 |
| Ramen | Ichiran, Ippudo, Afuri | $6-10 |
| Wagyu Kobe (A5 steak) | Aragawa, Yoroniku | $160-500 |
| Accessible wagyu | Han no Daidokoro, Kintan | $50-80 |
| Tonkatsu | Maisen, Tonki | $12-20 |
| Local izakaya | Andy's Shin Hinomoto, any Torikizoku | $16-30 |
| Konbini (FamilyMart, 7-Eleven) | Onigiri, katsu sandwich, oden | $1.50-4 |
| Konbini secret | 7-Eleven coffee at ¥110 is among the world's best | $0.75 |
Tipping is offensive in Japan. Don't tip. If you insist, they will chase you down the street to return it.
Cherry blossom vs autumn leaves — which to pick
TL;DRSakura (cherry blossom): March 25 to April 7 in Tokyo (historical average). Hotels double in price, JFK-NRT flights run $2,000+ round trip. Good spots: Meguro River (lit at night), Ueno Park, Chidorigafuchi (rent a rowboat).
Sakura (cherry blossom): March 25 to April 7 in Tokyo (historical average). Hotels double in price, JFK-NRT flights run $2,000+ round trip on ANA or United. Good spots: Meguro River (lit at night), Ueno Park, Chidorigafuchi (rent a rowboat).
Koyo (autumn leaves): November 20 to December 5. Same visual beauty. Flights $1,400, hotels at normal rates. Spots: Rikugien (night illumination), Meiji Jingu Gaien (ginkgo avenue), Mt. Takao (1h from Tokyo, trail + cable car).
For Americans going once, autumn is the better financial decision and just as good visually. Sakura is a once-in-a-lifetime experience if you can pay 40% more.
Language — is English spoken? No. And it still works
TL;DRTokyo gets 25 million tourists a year and almost nobody on the street speaks English. In 4-star hotels and up, yes. In Shibuya restaurants, maybe. In Hakone ryokan, rarely. In konbini, never. What works: Google Translate with camera — point at the menu and it translates in real time.
Tokyo gets 25 million tourists a year and almost nobody on the street speaks English. In 4-star hotels and up, yes. In Shibuya restaurants, maybe. In Hakone ryokan, rarely. In konbini, never.
What works:
- Google Translate with camera — point at the menu and it translates in real time. Download the Japanese offline pack.
- Google Maps — works better than local apps, shows the exact subway line, which car, which exit.
- Hyperdia or Navitime — train schedule apps accurate to the second (Japanese trains average 18 seconds of delay per year).
- Learn 5 phrases: sumimasen (excuse me), arigatou gozaimasu (thank you), ikura desu ka (how much), eigo wakarimasen (I don't understand English — useful in reverse), toire wa doko desu ka (where's the bathroom).
Menu with no photos and no English? Point at the next table's dish.
Total cost — 7 days, standard couple
TL;DR
| Item | Cost (USD) |
|---|---|
| JFK-NRT flight (ANA/United, round-trip, Oct-Nov) | $1,700/person |
| Mid-range Shinjuku hotel × 7 nights | $840 (couple) |
| JR Pass 7 days (if doing Hakone + Kamakura) | $335/person |
| Suica reload (no JR Pass) | $120/person |
| Meals (konbini mix, ramen, izakaya, 1 omakase) | $500/person |
| Paid attractions (TeamLab, Shibuya Sky, museums) | $160/couple |
| Buffer | $300/couple |
| Couple total | $5,700-6,400 |
Solo backpacker in capsule hotel + ramen + no omakase: $2,800 including flight.
Practical appendix
- Pocket Wi-Fi: rent Ninja WiFi or Japan Wireless at the airport (¥600/day, $4). Verizon/AT&T roaming is $10/day and worse.
- Plug adapter: Type A (2 flat pins). Same as the US — you don't need an adapter. Voltage 100V (phone chargers handle it; some hairdryers won't).
- Apple Pay/Google Pay: works at konbini and some chains. Don't count on it at family restaurants.
- Cash: withdraw at 7-Eleven (ATM accepts international Visa/Mastercard, ¥110 fee). Carry ¥30,000.
- Station lockers: ¥400-700 for a large bag. Useful for a Hakone day trip without returning to the hotel.
- Emergency: 110 police, 119 ambulance. US Embassy Tokyo: +81-3-3224-5000.
Key points
The 7-day JR Pass costs ¥50,000 ($335) and only pays off if you day-trip to Hakone, Kamakura plus another Shinkansen — for Tokyo-only, Suica/Pasmo wins.
Mid-range Tokyo hotel runs $120/night (Shinjuku, Shibuya); decent capsule hotel costs $40 but sleep is rough.
Serious counter nigiri (Sushi Saito, Sukiyabashi Jiro mid-tier) starts at $60 per person; excellent ramen runs $7.
Frequently asked questions
No. US passport holders enter with a passport valid for 6 months and stay up to 90 days as tourists. Heads up: since 2024 Japan requires prior filing of Visit Japan Web (online, free) with a QR code to clear immigration — without it you wait 2 hours in line. Do it a week ahead.
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About the author
Curadoria Voyspark
2 years in the Voyspark editorial team
Time editorial da Voyspark — escritores, repórteres, fotógrafos e fixers em Lisboa, Tóquio, Nova York, Cidade do México e Marrakech. Coletivo. Sem voz corporativa. Cada peça com checagem cruzada por um editor regional e um chef ou curador local.
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